The paper quadcopter
So to make the rails you will roll 2 sheets on the side of the paper and for the arm you will roll 3 sheets on the 1 inch side of the paper it all in the video above. Ok now I decide to reinforce the rails and arms by adding Popsicle stick and zip ties, even tho the hot glue should be enough I just want to add reinforcement with the zip ties. You will need 10 sheets of printer paper. the first 3 sheets. with first sheet roll roll it as tight as you can but not all the way.. the last 3 inch insert another sheet and keep on rolling and the last 3 inchs insert another sheet and roll all the way tight. tape it in the middle so it does not unravel.
I got it! I decided to make bread something I had never made before nothing like food to get your ideas going! I kept thinking of something he kept rolling the dough it gave me how to make a paper quadcopter idea! I got the bread out of the oven!
I let it cool down for a bit and then gave the sliced bread a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil…OMG! It was soo amazing! Now I could go back to work on the project! His rolling motion gave me the idea to roll paper in to a tube, the tighter the roll the stiffer and stronger how to make a paper quadcopter would be!
So I took out some printer paper and started rolling… Rolling all that paper reminded me of my teenage years…. I rolled a really tight tube with 2 sheets I was so happy that I figured out how to make an arm out of paper that was very very strong I was chasing everyone around the house hitting and stabbing them with this hard as nails paper tube see it does not break! So after the police came I stopped…ok so I had figured out how to make the arms but not the body. You can print one sheet with you logo on the end so on the final roll your logo will appear perfect.
I thought about crossing them but then it would not be even. Wait a minute why does it have to be crossed? No reason at all! Then cover that with a sheet of matte printer paper. That idea worked! Time for another sandwich! This time I add added ham to it! Me being lazy I later switch the raft method to a simpler method which would be a foam board in the center with rails on both sides for a couple of reasons.
Stiffer, lighter,stronger faster to make. So to make the rails you will roll 2 sheets on the 8. Ok now I decide to reinforce the rails and arms by adding Popsicle stick and zip ties, even tho the hot glue should be enough I just want to add reinforcement with the zip ties. Ok she is all done! Super strong! Super light! On weights between grams for the frame alone. How am I going to put the motors on? Was a great idea for a sec but would be hard to adjust and too final. Got it!
Rubber bands!! They are grippy you can make it tight, if a motor gets how do i run electricity to my shed it will move saving your motor shaft, and easy to remove if needed! Now if anyone here who is reading this knows of someone else who made a working paper quadcopter before me please let me know. I do know of a Card board quadcopter but much more complicated that mine his instructions starts out like this.
Ok I have put this article in a hurry. I do have a part 2 video on the electronics I am not sure you guys really need to see all of that I may just show how to mount the motors and the top and legs. Let me ask you first do you need to see the how to make a paper quadcopter electronic?
I wrote this article a while ago but it disappeared and it was no longer on my drive so I just rewrote it the first one was better I shot the the entire built video frame and electronic the disk is write protected how to format I went to edited it all the files were corrupted! But I was determine to do this and share with you my paper quadcopter I hope you enjoyed it and give it a try.
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Step 1: Collect Your Supplies
Make sure everything aligns well and superglue into place. Superglue the top center plate over the arms, paper-side up, aligned with the bottom center plate. Drill holes through the plates and arms as marked. Bolt the arms to the center plates. Drill motor mount and landing gear fitting Now we're ready to drill the motor mount holes. Leave a 3/8'' gap from the end of the arm (we measured this with a scrap of wood), and mark the two motor mount holes, using a motor mount . The "pod", at its longest point is 18cm, and is 8cm wide, draw and cut this out and then you'll be ready to glue. Use a generous amount of wood glue and glue the pod to the frame. Use plenty of pegs to secure it while it dries. While this dries take some cardboard to cut out the sides of the quad.
If you're looking at making a quadcopter for the first time, or you don't have a ton of money then this instructable is for you! Or maybe you're not sure that it's the right thing for you? Let me reassure you, this is a great hobby! The thing I probably love most about quadcopters, especially the bigger ones, is that they can fly in nearly any weather, and are completely stable. Another great thing is that you don't need a ton of space to fly them.
When I first started building this quadcopter I had many challenges and design flaws to overcome. For starters I had to figure out a sturdy enough frame to withstand the twisting of the motors, secondly I had to find a way to attach the motors, because you can't use the conventional screws and lock nuts as they rip off far to easily, thirdly I had to find a way to stop the vibrations from the motors traveling through the frame and messing up the gyros inside the controller and lastly I had to figure out how to make my own propellers because I broke all of my spares while testing, and because of lock down circumstances I couldn't get hold of new ones.
Lay out your two largest pieces of cardboard and draw a large X, each arm 50cm long and 3. Now to make the "pod" grab yourself something nice and round to draw the curve on either end of the "pod". I used the lid of a large jar. The "pod", at its longest point is 18cm, and is 8cm wide, draw and cut this out and then you'll be ready to glue. Use a generous amount of wood glue and glue the pod to the frame. Use plenty of pegs to secure it while it dries. While this dries take some cardboard to cut out the sides of the quad.
You will need about 50 strips of cardboard. This next step of the "pod" is probably the most important step of the build because we are dealing with the durability of the quad. I chose to use a high strength wood glue called PVA which you can find at most hardware stores. Remove the pegs from the frame and lay it so that the "pod" part is facing up, cut the strips of cardboard to the right lengths. Now, I haven't given you a measurement for this part, because there are so many slight variations of this cut, that the best way to do it is to measure, cut, and glue one bit of cardboard at a time.
At the ends of the frame glue a little bit of cardboard so that it interlocks with the sides. I used mugs to hold down the cardboard while the glue dried. I also layered up the strips of cardboard until I achieved the height of my battery - this might vary, depending on what type of battery you're using.
Now take your second frame, remove the pegs and cut a 3. I used rubber bands to secure them while they dried. These squares you've just glued on will be what you mount your motors onto.
Now take your motors and screw on the motor mounts that came with them. Take your motors and glue them onto the 3. Don't use hot glue even though my photos show this, because the hot glue softened with the heat of the motors and came off! Use PVA instead of hot glue. Now that the motors have been mounted to the frame it's time to solder the ESC's Electronic Speed Controllers to your motors so that the top left motor spins clockwise, the top right motor spins anti-clockwise, the bottom right motor spins clockwise and the bottom left motor spins anti-clockwise.
If you need to change the direction of the motors, change any two of the three wires on your ESC around and the motor will spin the opposite direction. Also solder two wires out the back of the "pod" to connect to a XT60 connector. Now that the wiring is done it would be a good time to insulate all the wires from each other.
You will have to forgive me for not doing a neater job on my insulation, but because of the current circumstances I couldn't get hold of any shrink tubing.
Electrical tape had to do. Now that you've soldered all your wires it is time to glue on the top of the drone. But before you glue on the top cut a little notch into each end of it for the wires to go through.
Also cut two slits in the "pod" lid for the ESC wires, then go ahead and glue it straight on, I used rubber bands to hold it together while it dried. In this step we are going to make our own props for the drone with a PVC pipe. The props I made worked way better than I ever expected, even though they were created half the amount of thurst than standard props they are the most silent props I have ever flown with.
Grab yourself a piece of PVC pipe about 25cm long , I used a 6. Print out the PDF found in this section. Cut out the templates, and glue glue stick them onto the PVC pipe - make sure that when you glue them on the pipe, two of the blades are facing left and two right. Cut the PVC with a hack saw or scroll saw or fine toothed jig saw. I used a scroll saw : I then soaked them in some water for a few minutes to take off the paper.
Use some sandpaper to sand off any rough burrs. Glue on a strip of PVC pipe on the top and back, 6 cm long. Drill a 5mm hole in the middle and three 2mm holes along the strips to thread copper wire through. I did this to add more strength. Now to make sure the leading edge the straight edge is tilting up a little, you can either cut the prop in half which shows in the last photo before you glue the 6cm top and bottom supports and offset each blade back 2 or 3 mm which tilts them , or if you don't want to cut your prop in half you can heat the PVC up a little with a heat gun and bend them back with a pair of pliers.
When I first made the drone I stuck the controller straight on to the top, but there was a massive problem with that and it took me a while to find a solution - the problem was that the vibration from the motors traveled straight through the drone and confused the controller gyros making it so that I couldn't even fly it!
I tried everything imaginable from adding more cardboard to the frame to make it sturdier but that didn't work, to making an anti-vibration pad out of cardboard but that did nothing in the world to help it either.
I then came up with the idea of making a more 'solid' pad for the controller to sit on - made out of cardboard and bamboo skewers. This pad worked really well as it eliminated the vibrations troubles. Take some cardboard and cut out a piece see photo 1 for measurements , large enough to glue your flight control board onto. I made mine a little tapered, just to add a bit of contrast to all the square shapes on the drone. For this build I will be using a kk2 flight controller, this controller is great for beginners because it comes pre programmed straight from the factory.
Now dip the skewers in PVA and push them through the holes in the cardboard, work a skewer through every corrugation hole and when the glue has dried cut of all the excess lengths.
Now glue the 'anti-vibration' pad to the drone with PVA, once that's dry, glue your controller to the anti vibration with hot-glue - make sure you get it as centered as possible, the more centered it is the better your drone will fly. Take your four wires from the four ESC's and plug them into the control board, your top left motor should be plugged into the top right port of the control board, and the top right motor should be plugged into the second port down on the right side of the control board, carry on this process clockwise around the drone.
Plug your receiver wires into the controller - the wire, with one connector on either side, should be plugged into channel one of the receiver, and the other end plugged into the top right port on the control board.
The other wire, with three connectors on one end and one on the other end, should be plugged into channel 2,3,and 4 of the receiver while the other end should be plugged into the 2, 3, and 4 ports below the other receiver wire. Plug in your battery and your kk2 flight controller should boot up, it should be displaying an 'Error' message, ignore that and press the menu button, scroll down to the bottom and click on the 'factory reset'.
It should then pop up with a menu for choosing which drone frame you want, scroll down until you get to Quadcopter X mode, click 'accept', and then click back and back again, go back to the menu and scroll down to the 'acc calibration'. Place your drone on a flat surface and click 'calibrate'. When that's done scroll up to the mode settings and change auto level from 'AUX' to 'Always'.
Unplug your battery, turn on your controller, and then plug in the battery again. So now all you've got left to do is to attach your props, this is really simple, just undo the 'bullet-shaped' bolts on the top of each motor, attach your props and tighten the 'bullet-shaped' bolts back down with a pair of pliers, tighten them well or your propellers will fly off!
Connect your battery and you're finished. Go try it! Incredibly well done, taking this idea with me to my drone building class. Thanks for sharing and keep it up! It seems either everyone has stopped buying from China, or everyone staying home are making projects like these. Everything is sold out. Reply 11 months ago. Would this one work without any issues?
I don't know anything about the remotes since the 80s. Does anyone have a solution for one to buy within the US that isn't going to break the bank? Question 11 months ago on Step 8. So, for us new to this, and would rather have actually propellers with more lift, what do you reccommend for that?
Answer 11 months ago. That was a very ambitious project. I would have never thought of making a drone out of cardboard. I'm very impressed at how you solved the vibration problem and even that you recognized what was causing your copter to not fly. I'm also very impressed at your improvised blades. Maybe you could make yourself a little extra cash by making and selling those blades. I hope you win this cardboard contest. You certainly have my vote.
Thanks a bunch for that search. Being new to this, I am not sure what else what would work. Looking forward to building this! Very good job with the build and instructable.
If you already have a battery, charger and transmitter it would only cost you about NZD, including shipping, for the motors, ESCs and flight controller.
Where did you get the idea of using pvc pipe for props? Absolutely brilliant. Introduction: Cardboard Quadcopter. By josthebos Follow. More by the author:. Supplies: Supplies 1.
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